Cabane de Bovinette and Pointe Ronde

March 6, 2025

A friend’s birthday was the perfect excuse for a group getaway to the Cabane de Bovinette. The summer car park beside Champex-Lac was completely free of snow, and driving a very urban Skoda Octavia up the forestry road turned out to be the most adventurous part of the weekend.

By the time we arrived, the cabin was warm and welcoming, putting to rest any worries about the cold. The evening was clear and still, and the sight of multiple planets aligning across the night sky was spectacular. It was a special night—made even more so by our friend’s six-month-old daughter, a reminder that parenthood doesn’t have to mean missing out on mountain adventures.

We were a diverse group, and the ascent of Pointe Ronde presented no real obstacles. The day remained calm and clear, and from the summit, we admired the Aiguille du Tour and the Grand Combin in the foreground, with the Dent Blanche, Weisshorn, and Matterhorn standing proud to the east. One of our group, a trainee opera singer, treated us to a few Catalan mountain ballads at the top, accompanied by slices of chocolate cake.

The first 600 meters of descent were glorious—fresh snow over a firm base on the north side. The final 400 meters, down a frozen track, weren’t quite as enjoyable but still made for a fun ride.

Back in Chamonix, we capped off the day with a well-earned celebratory beer.

Stats:

Depart 09h19, Summit:13h00, parking 15h45

11.46 km 1104m+

Tête de la Combaz 25

February 16, 2025

It had snowed a bit during the week but it was again warm. This seems to be a recurring theme this year. The way up was fine through the forest and after the Auberge de Colombaz it started to really heat up. It was south facing all the way up. A quick change of skins about 300m from the top and that was that.

We only saw three other parties all day and this route is normally well frequented, which probably reflected the condition it was in. Our rather late start meant the slope had been in the direct sun all morning and the snow was destroyed. A quick photo at the top and to the descent. The snow was poor, but enjoyable nonetheless. We encountered one group waiting on a helicopter with a guy lying in the recovery position. I asked if all was ok and they said it was ok and kindly asked us to leave, so we duly did so. Ten minutes later we saw the helicopter flying low over the valley.

A tasty muffin and a coffee at the bottom in Bol d’air and we were back in time for the Osasuna match. They even managed a draw against Madrid, not a bad day’s work.

Looking north to Mont Joly from Tete de la Combaz

Col de la Fenetre and Col de la Cicle

February 10, 2025

Ever since buying the apartment in les Contamines the Col de la Fenetre has become our go to outing on the skis. The conditions didn’t look promising but in the end were quite ok. The pace was strong and we charged up the Col de la Fenetre. A quick snack and then a romp the couloir behind the Tete de la Circle with some tight kick turns.

The northern side of the Col de la Cicle feels intimidating from below, but the snow was firm and enjoyable to ski down.

Even with 2km of skating we arrived in plenty of time to watch Scotland get horsed against Ireland in the Six Nations.

It felt like a long day, definitely not used to these big days on the skis at the moment.

Stats:

Depart 09h35, Summit:13h39, parking 15h15

18.7km 1352m+

View south over to Lacs Jovets and Col du Bonhomme

Mont Blanc massiv from Col de la Fenetre

High treaverse off the Col de la Fenetre

Mont Blanc and Val Montjoie from Col de la Cicle

Croisse Baulet and Petit Croisse Baulet

February 3, 2025

Not the first day of the season but the first that I have remembered to write about. We started too late from just above Cordon. It was a nice skin up the track but the moment we hit the sun, the skins got sticky.

The snow on the way down was terrible. A nice day nonetheless and a route to be repeated in better conditions and without every man and his dog there.

Stats:

Depart 11h04, Summit:12h28, parking 16h01

14.85km 1167m+

Col de la Fenetre

January 13, 2025

A nice hop up to the Col de la Fenetre. Conditions not as nice as expected.

Stats:

Depart 10h48, Summit:13h00, parking 14h07

13.84 km 1064m+

Aiguille de la Berangere through the forest

Views towards Aiguille Croche from Col de la Fenetre

Bois de Rollaz and the decent back up the valley

Tête de Bostan

February 24, 2024

A return to tag the summit following a quite frankly ridiculous decision to turn around before the summit the weekend before. The weather continued to be unseasonably hot and the track from the bottom had lost more snow.

Nonetheless, given the lack of other options, it was a good option. South-facing but projected and in the shade at the bottom.

We hit it lucky with the timing, letting the sun warm up the crust we had some nice spring snow all the way back to the forest

Haute Giffre Refuge de Bostan

February 23, 2024

There is not much to say about this one. It was a training weekend with terrible snow and an incredibly slow group. At least I learnt something.

What made up for it were the views. A spectacular sunset from the Refuge du Bostan and the valley just above it.

Pointe de Balafrasse

December 26, 2023

17.12.2023

I want to write about this one quickly before going away. We weren’t expecting much, with the hot weather and rain during the week, but we were surprised. Good spring skiing conditions, albeit in December, with carpet-like soft snow on the top.

Stats:

Depart 09h45, Summit:13h15, parking 14h15

10.8km 992m+

Tête de la Combaz

December 18, 2023

16.12.2024

Not a huge amount to say about this one. We arrived in les Contamines at around 10am with the idea of doing Tête de la Combaz. I had endured the obligatory end of year parties on the Thursday and Friday before the weekend, but it was safe to say that I was not on the best of form. I was tired and not massively motivated for the outing.

We arrived in Contamines at 09h30 and had a tight deadline to be back at the car by 13h45 at the latest. It was cold in the valley, probably around -1 °C or -2°C but we knew it wouldn’t last. The snow line was higher than expected and we had to walk almost 350m+ before we put the skis on.

From the minute the skis went on it was hot. My motivation wasn’t high but we endeavoured on, still holding on to a glimpse of hope that the top might be attainable. Alas, 12h15 came- the turnaround time- and we still had 300m+ to do.

So it was skins off and we began descending. The snow was indeed poor. A mixture of the hot temperatures and the rain from the previous week had rendered it horrible but at least there was something. This time last year it was almost 20°C and the hills were brown.

We reached the Auberge de la Combaz and took the skis off. All that was left was a pleasant wander back to the car and a quick coffee in the town before a house viewing.

Crêta de Velle

December 13, 2023

10.12.2023

As always, we spent a magical night in the hospice. Time spent with a group of friends, a unique atmosphere and the stillness that comes with staying in the hospice always make for an enjoyable weekend. I look forward already to next year’s weekend.

The night was extremely windy on the Col du Grand Saint Bernard. According to the Meteo Suisse weather station, there had been gusts of up to 150km/h. This was promptly verified when I popped my head out the door before breakfast. This was forecast, and a plan to adapt to this situation had been formed the night before. The decision to descend down to Bourg Saint Pierre was made, and we would hope that the worst of the wind would not have affected the lower altitudes. I said my goodbyes to Brother Rafael until next year, and we made the easy descent back to the car. 500m- of descent was not bad to warm up the quads.

Starting at the school at Bourg Saint Pierre, it was a rare short descent down to the river. The snow was abundant, but wet. We knew it had rained during the night but hoped it wouldn’t be too bad for the snow pack.

The climb up through the forest was pleasant, and the snow-covered trees had an air of stillness. We set a good pace, which was fast but manageable, and we quickly met the treeline. A short traverse was required to navigate an old landslide before meeting the cross that could be seen from below and rejoining the plateau.

The snow felt awful, a thick crust had formed and the underlying layer was wet. We hoped it would improve as we went up. The original plan was just to stop at the cross at Champ Long (2132m), thinking that the snow would be wind beaten higher up. We decided to continue on a bit and see how the snow developed.

Fortunately, as we continued up it seemed the snow had been sheltered from the wind and was on the limit of snow/rain. It improved as we approached the summit and we even encountered limited patches of semi-fresh powder. The descent would at least have some metres of fun.

A pause was taken at the summit to enjoy a view of the Massif du Mont Blanc to the west and le Grand Combin and Mont Velan to the east. Cups of tea and a sandwich later and skins were off ready to descend.

Descending afforded us about 50m of good snow and 950m of not-so-good snow, but it was enjoyable nonetheless. Arriving back to the end river at the bottom of the valley, my legs were shot. 1000m+ of descent in heavy snow on untrained legs was tough so early in the season and only went to reinforce why I need to go the gym before the new year.

Stats:

Depart 10h45, Summit:13h45, parking 15h

13.2km 1081m+

Les Monts Telliers

December 12, 2023

09.12.2023

A visit to the hospice at the Col du Grand Saint Bernard has become a permanent fixture in my diary at the weekend closest to Saint Lucy's Day. Mentally, it marks the first proper days of skiing for the season and is probably one of my most anticipated weekends of the year. Not necessarily for the skiing; in fact, I am still to really experience the slopes of the Western Valais in good condition. I like it more for the atmosphere in the hospice and the time spent with friends after the actual skiing takes place.

Nonetheless, there was some skiing to do, and given mixed conditions and a group of seven, we decided to repeat last year's outing. Les Monts Telliers provides a relatively simple route from the start point at the tunnel at Bourg Saint Bernard, and with the light being extremely flat and snow predicted in the early afternoon, it was a sensible choice.

We arrived at 10 am, and many groups had already set off for the day, with the car park being almost full. Keen also was the majority of our group arriving at 9h15; they also decided to head off before we arrived, giving us 45 minutes to make up.

The route was quite self-explanatory, and we set off towards the valley that spurs off from the road that heads up to the col. The weather was already looking grim by the time we started the main climb, and by the time we turned off towards the la combe de Drône, the snow had started to come down. We had about 500m+ left to do, and it didn’t look great. I was pretty set on making the call and turning around but decided to continue on until cresting the main slope before fully committing to this decision.

Fortunately, we didn’t turn around, as the snow stopped as soon as it had started, and we even managed to punch through the patch of thick clouds. A glimpse of almost blue skies popped out, and then we caught sight of our group ahead of us. This made the idea of turning around seem obsolete and we shuffled on to catch up with guys ahead.

Views over towards Mont Velan looking moody

I remembered the last section of the route being a bit exposed and as we reached the last ridgeline, we decided to take the skis off and bootpack the last 50m+. We were all one big group of seven now and the steps kicked out were gladly borrowed as the top of the mountain had taken a fair amount of wind over the last days. I was slightly concerned at the risk of windslab, but we spaced out and passed the steeper headwall without any issues gladly.

The weather window we had miraculously found did not look like it was hanging around so after a quick visit to les Monts Telliers summit (2977m), we whipped the skins off and set upon skiing off the top section which was the most tricky section of the route.

View south towards la Pointe de la Drone (2949m) and la Pointe des Trois Lacs (2796m)

Any fears of the summit descent were quickly avoided as the group successfully navigated the tricky traverse on the windy face. All that was left now was the gentle descent back down to the road. The snow was good, light and untracked, but the flat light took away from what would have been excellent on a better day.

All that was left was the last hour climb up to the hospice. There were no complications, but the weather did turn for the worse and required the completely foul weather set of clothes with goggles. In the end, the hospice was a pleasant site.

Depart: 10h10, Summit: 13h20, Back to the Road: 14h30, Hospice: 15h50

14.1km 1,443m+:

Combe de Paccaly

December 12, 2023

07.12.2023

On the Wednesday morning I was not expecting to go skiing on Thursday. An opportune message from a friend proposing a quick morning outing with the goal of being back in the office for lunch arrived like a sign from a devine being. Fortunately I had nothing of real importance scheduled for the morning and the plan for an express trip to the Aravis was planned.

Leaving Geneva at 7h45, we headed towards la Clusaz hoping to capitalise on an abundant last few days of snow and predicted blue skies. Early morning light was not hopeful as by 8h30 the sky was still grey and covered by thin veil of cloud. However, as we passed Cluses the blue skies started to present themselves and by the time we’d passed Saint Jean de Sixt the decision to take the morning off was vindicated.

Boots on then at the XC parking at les Confins and we set off behind one or two other groups. The advantage of having more or less rested since Sunday and having a fast partner was evident in our pace. We were averaging about 850m+ per hour with some fresh snow and in no time we had 600m+ under our feet. A brief stop to remove jackets and we were on our off.

We made the top after 2h15 and took in the panorama of the Massif du Mont Blanc to the east and les Bauges and alpine foothills to the west.

Skins off and time to have some fun in the powder. It was a descent verging on perfect and with a partner skiing fast and with such ease it made me look like a total beginner. Before I knew it, we were at the car and it was over. The objective was to be back in the office by 14h and on that account I failed. 14h03 would have to do.

Stats:

Depart: 9h15, Summit: 11h30, Parking: 12h15

9.8km 1013m+

Tour de La Dole

December 11, 2023

03.12.2023

This has become a classic over the last few years to start the season. When there is snow down to the car park and the station is shut, La Dôle gives off the feeling of being much more wild than it is in reality. When the pine trees are covered with fresh snow and the Jura is still, free of winds that often plague plateau, there is a magical calmness that is enchanting. Having these hills at only 45 minutes from my door is a gem that I shouldn’t undervalue and the fact that it isn’t always in condition only makes the good days that bit more enjoyable.

As the was the first day of the season and three out of four of the group had ran the Duc (almost a half marathon) the evening before, only twelve hours previously, meant that a short tour was in order.

Parking the car at the ski station car park in France, it was clear that we were not the only ones who wanted to take advantage of the abundant snow and the station being shut. Booting up, it was bitterly cold and shocked the system after a scorching summer and ridiculously mild autumn period. This was the first time of the year I had this sensation of chill and I was glad to finally see the season had transitioned into winter.

We started up to the south of the station, passing around the back of the blue slope, borrowing the traces left by others. The ascent was steady and without any difficulty. The first conversions of the day on the last slope of the red piste towards the summit were a pleasure, I still remembered how to do it.

The summit came and the we were treated to a pristine cloud inversion over the Leman basin. There was a wavelike cloud feature flowing over la faucille and down towards the le Reculet. A few snaps were taken and the skins were whipped off before we headed south and then east into the bowl in between la Dôle and la Barilette.

Deciding on the steepest face, which is normally a superb little 150m section of 35 degree skiing, was probably not the most intelligent decision as a first descent. The snow was good, but heavier than expected. It must have caught more wind than I had thought and was not the easiest first turns of the season.

Everyone survived to tell the tale, a few small tumbles notwithstanding, and we skied down to the bottom of the bowl. Skins back on and a nice solitary traverse across the bowl before starting climbing again. We passed by the Nyon ski club’s winter hut and I was quite lethargic. We’d only been out a few hours but the 600m+ were sufficient.

We passed the summit triangle and packed the skins away. Descending by the ungroomed, well tracked piste was pleasant. The quads burned and I worked up a sweat, and before knowing it the descent was over. Skis off and short trot back to the car. A lovely afternoon’s work.

Stats:

Depart: 12h10, Second summit 14h30, Parking 15h

8.3km 685m+

Ski Season 23/24

December 10, 2023

I’m not sure if people are actually interested in reading about what I have been skiing. Perhaps not, but it makes for a nice record for me.

Last season was probably the least productive ski touring season I have had since moving to the Switzerland. A lot of this was due to the conditions- lack of snow and a stupidly hot Christmas period. This meant that finding snow close to Geneva involved at least a two hour drive to fit anything skiable. I wasn’t massively motivated to do this every weekend and overall my motivation just to tour was not really there.

I raced plenty on the skis, which was the first time I had committed so much to skimp racing. In total I had six full days in races, two of which (la Belle Étoile) were some of my hardest days on skis. In hindsight, I wondered if this detracted from just going out and enjoying days on the hills.

This year the motivation is back and I just plan to get out whenever I can. Short days, long days, easy days or tough days I’m not really bothered. The key is just to get out, as it is never regretted afterwards. I’ve also found a renewed fascination in the mapping part of the day out, pouring over a topo map and looking at all the names of the mountains that are possible and looking at what might be nice to ski down.

So this little repertoire is here to doucement all the days I do on skis. It might be useful for others as a little English resource for others skiing in the Alps and Pyrenees.

Høgruta i Jotunheimen- Norway’s Haute Route

May 1, 2022

I kept repeating to my Norwegian friend and well-appreciated organiser of the proceedings that follow, that Norway is ‘just the same’ as Scotland. This came with the caveats of it being 10 degrees colder, and therefore snowier, in winter and a fair bit more civilized (granted the bar is set quite low on this parameter). By the end of the 10 days, she was interrupting her partner, a hardy mountain man from down south, and filling in the end of our sentences depicting parallels between the two countries and why they are just better than the Alps.

On the menu for Easter week then- Høgruta i Jotunheimen, Norway’s answer to the more famous, and in my opinion, less glamorous Skier’s Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt.

It was pleasantly balmy in Oslo upon arrival, so much so that a quick dip in the Olso Fjord was called for both after a pleasant run around some of the surrounding small islands that was to help condition us for the 6 days of skiing to come.

Høgruta traverses Norway’s Jotunheimen National Park, and ticks off some of the country’s highest tops (including Glittertind and Galdhøpiggen 2ndand 1st tallest respectively) and impressive glaciers. Starting in Bessheim and finishing Krossbu, the route covers a mixture of skating across frozen lakes, gentle drags up glaciers, steep skinning up faces and a fair chunk of skis-on-bag crampon and axe work in order to go up. Going down was also an eclectic mix of crappy wind scraped ice plastered 30deg+ faces, mellow and endless glides down 15deg glaciers, down climbing roped up and even some fresh snow south-facing turns. It tested my wife’s still green and maturing skiing skills to a new level and tested the durability of my toenails and skin around my feet to a level of discomfort I had once never believed plausible.

I shall not indulge myself too much by waxing lyrical about each day in excessive detail, rather let the photos depict the surroundings and give a flavour of what I can only describe as a simply a superb journey across a wild and majestic landscape.

Day 1. Bessheim- Memurubu

Snow cover was patchy but the long skate across the lake was all the easier for it. No objective issues en route to the first summit of the trip Bukkehø. If only the descent were so simple. Wind beaten on the top and south meant a backtrack was required and a 400m ski down a face where a fall would not have been fun. After this, a mixture of toe-pointing shuffling on crampons mixed with rock dodging on skis ended in a 10 hour day to start with and 20km 1500m+ of hard-fought-for stats. Given the poor forecast and accompanying snow in the east, we arrived at the cabin to find we were accompanied by only one other party. Double services of meat cake (apparently the translation I believe?) were duly swept up.

Stats:

20km 1500m+ and 10h on foot

Day 2. Memurubu- Memurubu

The forecast had for a fair morning followed by a medium to poor (in shipping forecast vernacular) afternoon accompanied by snow and low visibility. The original plan foresaw a night in Glitterheim, however, after summiting the day’s summit Surtningssue late afternoon the cornice that predominately westerly winds had brought, meant that descending onto Styggehøbrean (glacier) would have been silly at best. With no visibility and few alternatives available to make it to Glitterheim, it was decided that a tactical retreat to last night’s refuge was in order. The problem being, that we had no reservation and no ways of contacting them. We chanced it and set off trying to arrive back before nightfall. Fortunately, upon arrival, they had space and more importantly hot food.

A last note on the day was that Glitterheim had also called to see if we were alive seeing as we had not made it there as planned. At the start of the day, it is standard that you write a detailed itinerary and if anyone has not arrived before a reasonable hour the huts start calling each other to see that all is ok. I can only commend this, bravo!

Stats:

20km, 1600m+ and 12 hours on foot.

Day 3. Memurubu-Spiterstulen

After a second unforeseen night at Memurubu, a bit of rejigging the day’s route was required in order to stay on track. This unfortunately meant that Glittertind would have to be dropped and replaced with a long climb up the Austre Memurubreen glacier. Weather had improved but my feet beaten from the previous day of being locked up were in tatters. The descent off the glacier and gentle skate into the hut were pleasant, as was the cold pint upon arrival.

Stats:

23.6km, 1000m+ and 7.5 hours on foot.

Day 4.Spiterstulen-Leirvassbu

Galdhøpiggen (Norway’s highest) was the objective of most in the hut, but alas, not for us. South face was apparently un-skiable, at least for mere mortals like us, and doing an out and back was a vile proposition in view of the remainder of the day ahead of us. The alternate route instead took us via Tverråbrean glacier, to the summit of Bukkeholstindan and down the Bukkeholsbrean glacier with a 5km false flat skin and skate over the frozen lake to the hut for the night. Pint (or three) well appreciated upon arrival, even if they did cost 15quid a pop.

Stats:

20km, 1300m+ and 6h45 on foot

Day 5. Leirvassbu-Leirvassbu

The rest day apparently. A quick circular route around the summit Stetinden and back before lunch. Estimations of timing seemed to be a reoccurring weak point of our group as a 3 or 4 hour day proved much more taxing than planned. The summit required a ski stash at the face and a slight aerial ridge out and back to reach the true summit, well worth the extra hour. The few cm of fresh snow from two days ago held really well and the 900m descent off the shoulder were probably the best lines of the trip.

Stats:

13.5km, 1000m+ and (only) 5h30

Day 6. Leirvassbu-Krossbu

Final day and we were just getting warmed up…

An easterly traverse hitting first the summit of Storebjørn (Big Bear translated I’m rightly informed) and descending its icy exposed face onto the saddle. The last climb up Sokse provided a spicy end to the trip, especially seeing as my partner left my ice axe at the top of Bukkeholstindan 2 days previous. Fortunately, the ice was hard and previous Scottish winter climbing experience helped as we all negotiated the grade III gully to the top. All that was left was a leisurely 10km ski down to the car at Krossbu, cans of Solo (Norwegian Fanta) and a 6-hour drive back to Oslo before flying back to Switzerland early the next morning.